Chanel N5 aromāts Eau de Parfum
Aldehydes: Aldehydes are organic compounds that occur in nature but are almost exclusively synthetic when used in perfume. Popularised by Ernest Beaux’s iconic 1921 fragrance, Chanel No.5, they produce different scents depending on their chemical composition, from fresh and soapy to waxy, citrus and metallic. Aldehydes pair well with floral bouquets and citrus compositions, delivering an effervescent opening by amplifying the top notes before elevating the heart notes and generally adding depth. They also prevent musky accords from becoming too rich and sit beautifully over woody base notes, adding crispness ahead of a warming drydown.
Ylang-Ylang: Ylang-ylang grows in tropical rainforests across Southeast Asia and Indian Ocean islands like Madagascar and the Comoros. Its exotic, multi-faceted scent profile varies depending on the length of distillation, with tones ranging from bright and floral to rich, woody and balsamic. Used in perfumery since the 1860s, ylang-ylang became more widespread after balancing out the sharp aldehydes in 1921’s Chanel No.5. Today, it is an industry staple prized for its versatility, acting as an anchor for white floral bouquets, providing sweet, buttery heart notes and subtle spicy undertones, or producing a warm, seductive, solar aroma.
Neroli: Neroli is extracted from the beautiful white blossoms of the bitter orange tree, which thrives in warm North African countries like Tunisia. Its name references the Italian town of Nerola, whose 17th-century princess, Anne Marie Orsini, famously used the essence to perfume her gloves and bathwater. After appearing in Johann Maria Farina’s original Eau de Cologne in 1709, it helped form the bright, radiant opening of Chanel No.5. With its intense yet refreshing citrus fragrance, subtle, honey-like sweetness and floral, green or spicy facets, neroli is naturally energising and luxurious, pairing perfectly with white florals and other citrus notes.
Bergamot: Bergamot is a fragrant fruit known for its medicinal properties and as a signature element of Earl Grey tea. Cultivated almost entirely in the fertile orchards along Italy’s Calabrian coast, bergamot offers a fresh citrus facet with a subtle floral edge and a hint of peppery spice. It entered perfumery as an energising top note in Johann Maria Farina’s revolutionary Eau de Cologne of 1709 and has since become cherished for its crisp, uplifting aroma. As one of the most versatile ingredients of modern perfumery, bergamot is used to elevate and enliven everything from elegant chypres to sophisticated fougères.
Peach: Peach has been an aromatic ingredient since ancient times, but because its essence is hard to extract, it only entered perfumery after the discovery of Aldehyde C14 in 1908. Rich, velvety and lusciously creamy, this lactone evokes ripe, juicy peaches and is mixed with romantic florals, bright citrus facets and sensual amber notes to create captivating accords. Guerlain’s landmark 1919 perfume Mitsouko harnessed the nectar-like character of synthetic peach to balance its deep, mossy foundation, creating the fruity chypre sub-family. Today, adaptable peach accords are highly prized, enriching gourmand fragrances, smoothing out heavy florals and softening woody undertones.
Rose: Long associated with romance, rose is a foundational floral fragrance in modern perfumery. Its complex chemical profile makes it incredibly versatile, with solvent-extracted rose absolute giving a honeyed, intensely floral character, and steam-distilled rose oil producing a fresher, cleaner aroma. Rosa centifolia, almost exclusively cultivated in Grasse, France, is prized for its delicate, powdery tone, and Rosa damascena, grown primarily in Bulgaria and Turkey, offers a deep, velvety scent with sweet, spicy nuances. Perfumers pair these with other florals to create soft, elegant fragrances, spices for warm sensuality, citrus notes for summery brightness or woody accords for rich, earthy sophistication.
Jasmine: A cornerstone of modern perfumery, jasmine’s powerful, multifaceted aroma varies by species and origin. Jasminum grandiflorum, primarily grown in Egypt and India, offers a rich, floral profile with sweet, animalic nuances, while Jasmine sambac, mostly cultivated in India and China, is brighter, greener and slightly fruity. Due to the high price of jasmine absolute, the hallmark of luxury perfumes like Patou’s 1930 icon Joy, many modern fragrances utilise synthetic molecules such as hedione for a luminous, floral freshness. This versatility makes jasmine highly adaptive, elevating delicate bouquets, softening rich, woody chypres and adding warm, sensual depth to heavy amber perfumes.
Iris: Revered by ancient civilisations, iris remains sought-after for its luxurious aroma, which comes from chemical compounds called irones present in the rhizomes of Iris pallida – the gold standard in modern perfumery. It is primarily produced in Italy and Morocco through a multi-year process that develops its distinctive powdery, earthy and suede-like nuances. Highly versatile, iris lends crisp elegance and sophistication to the renowned ‘Guerlinade’ in 1912’s L’Heure Bleue, softens the leafy notes of Chanel No.19 with a velvety warmth, and deepens the woody accord of Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens – the ultimate expression of iris’s rooty facet.
Lily-of-the-Valley: The delicate scent of lily-of-the-valley’s fragrant springtime blossoms has captivated scent-makers for centuries, but as a ‘mute’ flower, it is impossible to capture its precious essence. Thus, its green floral profile must be recreated through accords of natural and synthetic ingredients, including hydroxycitronellal, which was introduced in the early 1900s. Such molecules allowed master perfumer Edmond Roudnitska to craft his iconic 1956 creation Diorissimo. While this Dior classic celebrates the flower’s crisp, dewy freshness, other perfumes use lily-of-the-valley as a supporting note in bright, elegant floral bouquets or to add sweet, airy lightness to heavier woody compositions.
Vanilla: Prized among ancient Mesoamerican cultures, vanilla is grown on tropical islands like Madagascar using hand-pollination techniques discovered on Réunion Island in 1841. Patient cultivation develops the aromatic vanillin molecules that produce its sweet, comforting scent, whose complex facets range from rum-like, treacly and slightly smoky to spicy, woody and nutty. Natural vanilla’s high price means that synthetic alternatives are often favoured; Guerlain’s 1889 masterpiece Jicky pioneered their use ahead of the sensual Shalimar, which popularised vanilla as a cornerstone of amber perfumes. It also enriches gourmand fragrances, rounds out zesty citrus and acts as a warm, long-lasting base note.
Sandalwood: Sandalwood’s soothing scent has graced sacred rituals across Southern Asia for centuries. Originating in India, the hemiparasitic Santalum album variety is valued for the precious essential oil harvested from the fragrant heartwood and roots of mature trees. Its scarcity and cost mean modern perfumery relies on synthetic alternatives or sustainable Australian plantations. Soft and woody with unique milky facets and a cosy sensuality, sandalwood can add depth to amber, fougère and floral fragrances, while effortlessly enhancing powdery or citrusy notes. Most importantly, it shines as a warm, long-lasting base note, anchoring icons like Guerlain’s Samsara and Chanel’s Bois des Îles.
Patchouli: Patchouli arrived in Europe as an insect repellent for fine fabrics transported from Southeast Asia. The rich, powerful aroma contained within its leaves is unlocked by a process of careful drying, steam distillation and aging of the essential oil. While its raw earthiness was beloved by 1960s hippies, modern oils like Patchouli Coeur are cleaner and more refined, adding depth to chypres, offering a sensual contrast to bright florals, enhancing warm, woody blends and complementing exotic amber accords. Also a profound fixative, patchouli anchors luxurious compositions such as Mugler’s pioneering 1992 gourmand Angel and Chanel’s exquisite 2007 fragrance Coromandel.
Vetiver: Originating in India, vetiver is a tropical grass with dense, vertical roots prized for their aromatic essential oil. Extracted through steam distillation, it emits a multifaceted, earthy scent that is yet to be synthetically reproduced. Regional varieties include crisp, refined Haitian; dark, smoky Javan; deep, balsamic Indian; and sweet, nutty Bourbon. A natural fixative and prominent base note, vetiver often anchors woody fragrances such as Guerlain’s 1961 masterpiece Vétiver, which contrasts sophisticated earthiness with bright citrus. More recently, it added bold smokiness to Chanel’s Sycomore and balanced the fruity opening and spicy heart within Tom Ford’s Grey Vetiver.
Oakmoss: Oakmoss is a tree-dwelling lichen found across South-Central Europe that undergoes solvent extraction to obtain its prized absolute. Showcased by Coty’s 1917 Chypre, it is a powerful fixative and elegantly alluring base note central to chypre fragrances such as Guerlain’s legendary Mitsouko. The allergenic molecules in oakmoss have been restricted by the IFRA since 2001, with modern perfumers turning to fractionated, irritant-free compounds to retain its signature damp-forest-floor aroma. In this low-atranol form, oakmoss adds green-bitter inkiness and structure to citrus or floral compositions, while its natural earthiness grounds woody or fougère fragrances and smooths out sweet, fruity accords.
Amber: Named after the stunning golden-yellow tree resin, amber is a ‘fantasy’ note – an accord constructed of natural and synthetic constituents – which has defined its eponymous fragrance family since Coty’s 1905 Ambre Antique. Three ingredients form the classic blend: leathery labdanum is the dark, resinous foundation, benzoin adds balsamic and spicy facets alongside subtle sweetness, and vanilla elevates their rich, smoky character while enveloping the composition in a warm, velvety blanket. Paired with tonka bean, cinnamon or synthetic Ambroxan, amber accords are comforting, full-bodied and sensual base notes offering sophisticated depth and luxurious longevity to woody, gourmand and floral compositions.
Jacques Polge developed a passion for fragrance after experiencing the floral aromas of Grasse during childhood holidays. He later returned there as an apprentice before honing his skills at the renowned Roure Bertrand Dupont perfume house. Able to craft complex compositions that pique both the senses and emotions, he gained recognition for his work on Yves Saint Laurent’s Rive Gauche (1971), setting him on the path to becoming Chanel nose in 1978. Through careful innovation, Polge composed some of the brand’s most iconic modern perfumes, including Égoïste (1990), Allure (1996), Coco Mademoiselle (2001) and Bleu de Chanel (2010). He also revived classics like Gardénia and Bois des Îles before retiring in 2015 and passing the torch to his son, Olivier, who continues his legacy today.
Alcohol, Water, Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol, Coumarin, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Limonene, Benzyl Benzoate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Eugenol, Citral, Farnesol, Isoeugenol, Benzyl Salicylate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ci 19140 (Yellow 5)